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When I
was in Australia, I had the privilege of visiting a vast collection
of parrots housed in a wonderful aviary. The enclosure was
120 yards long, 65 yards wide and 20 yards high. This avian
paradise was planted with subtropical shrubs and plants, and
contained several pairs of eclectus.
Each pair
had its own nestbox, and they were breeding in harmony. We
are not able to offer such luxury, but I house our parrots
in a large suspended aviary -- 21 feet long, 7 feet high and
4 feet wide -- the top of the enclosure being 10 feet above
the floor. Parrots are happier when they are higher up from
the ground.
I keep
the unit situated in a large building with good natural light.
During the shorter winter months, I use artificial lighting
in the morning to keep daylight at a minimum of 14 hours,
which is what the birds would have in their natural habitat.
It was
to my great good fortune that within a few weeks, one of our
new pairs had mated and produced eggs, one of which was fertile.
The male hatchling has progressed well. I close-rung him and
eventually he emerged from the nest, parent-raised. It is
important to me that our hatchlings not be hand-raised; I
fear this may cause them to lose some of their own parental
instincts when they reach sexual maturity and it is their
time to reproduce.
These
eclectus are not the first we have kept. Some years ago, we
had several pairs and found them easy to breed. We often regret
having parted with these magnificent birds.
Care
and Feeding
In recent
times, the Solomon Island eclectus has become well-known in
aviculture. Prior to this period, eclectus was mainly regarded
as a cage bird, and many of the captured birds were lost because
they were unable to adjust to the new living conditions. There
are some parrots, Amazons and African grays in particular,
which are capable of adapting to life as cage birds with relative
ease. A wild-caught eclectus, however, needs more care.
Many more
eclectus were lost because the food provided in captivity
was unsuitable for this particular parrot. A study of the
eclectus' digestive system shows this bird's need for a fruit
and vegetable diet. Some caged parrots can survive for long
periods on dry seed, but the eclectus cannot. To do well,
they require a half-salad diet. My own breeding pairs eat
mostly organically grown sprouted pulses, which are highly
nutritious. The also eat large quantities of carrots, apples,
oranges, fresh landcress and watercress, and leaf beat. A
male with young in the nest will avidly take care of a stalk
of celery or a head of lettuce daily. Because of the pesticide
sprays used by some fruit and vegetable growers, we peel or
wash all fruits and vegetables before giving them to the parrots.
Eclectus
also need some shade and seclusion. These are lowland forest
birds, after all. They love the early morning sun, but even
in captivity they need a shady refuge. Their need for bathing
is met by a misting system operated at least twice a week,
winter and summer.
The building
we keep our eclectus in is always warm. The roof has a southern
elevation, and during the summer we use shading to reduce
the sun's heat and glare.
Coloring
and Temperament
At one
time ornithologists considered the male and female eclectus
as two separate species because of the completely different
coloration of the birds. Males are mostly green with red sides
to the body and red underwing coverts, with some blue in the
wings and tail. The upper mandible is yellow, the lower mandible
is black and the iris is orange. Females are a spectacular
combination of red and purple. The head, breast and undertail
coverts are vivid red, the back and wings are dark red, and
the abdomen and upper mantle are purple. In some females,
the abdomen is bluish-mauve.
These
truly splendid parrots may not be as demonstrative as cockatoos,
for example, and some aviculturists find the eclectus rather
quiet and inactive. They are, however, highly intelligent
birds. If you spend time with the youngsters they will become
delightfully tame and playful.
My breeding
pairs are compatible. Nevertheless, when matching up pairs,
take care; females are often bossy. It is best to have males
that are a year or so older than the females when pairing
up youngsters. Because the birds are so keen to breed, during
the winter I close off the nests to rest the females and keep
them from becoming exhausted.
Breeding
Parents
in tiptop breeding condition will all too often peck their
chicks, especially on the feet, to make them leave the nestbox.
Only occasionally have I found parents that tolerate young
in the nest together with a new clutch of eggs. Because of
this, it is important to make the opening of the nestbox easy
for the young to emerge from. You should provide a good metal
ladder that goes right down to the bottom of the box. I have
known bird owners who use wooden ladders, but the hens tend
to chew the bottom part of a wooden ladder away. This frequently
results in mutilated youngsters who cannot not reach the shortened
ladder to leave the nest. If the young have difficulty in
vacating the nest they will be in danger of losing feet or
mandibles, or of being killed by the parents. The nestbox
can be of either the longbox design or the shortened version.
Some breeders like their boxes upright, while others prefer
a horizontal structure; either is fine as long as the nest
is easy for the young to leave.
Many aviculturists
are prevented from keeping parrots because of intolerant neighbors.
This need not deter those with room for an indoor flight cage.
Eclectus will breed equally well inside if a little thought
is given to the size and situation of flight areas. In my
opinion, all birds should be given the opportunity to fly.
A good rule of thumb when buying or constructing a flight
cage for large parrots is that the width should be twice the
wingspan, plus a handspan. This allows pairs to pass each
other in flight.
Finally,
a few words of advice if you are planning to purchase eclectus.
Take care to select even-tempered birds. You should avoid
nervous parrots, as many start plucking their feathers when
they become stressed. A steady bird will not suffer shock
to the same degree as a nervous one, and will more readily
adapt to its new environment in your home.
John Stoodley
and his wife, Pat, reside in the United Kingdom. They
have concentrated on parrots of the new world since 1973 and
have authored three books.
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